Litter & Boxes
Sifting through options
Last Updated 2/8/26
After your third cup of coffee, you’re heading to your mid-morning meeting in the hall bathroom-however so is everyone else. After waiting for half an hour, you crouch to enter the room and realize you’re unable to fully stand up. Next, the choking smell of sickeningly sweet air freshener and the previous user’s visit, hit your nostrils and you gag. Then, you notice the dripping wet counters, yellow dribbles on the floor and the toilet paper that’s been replaced with thin, useless sheets-how many times can you use the bathroom in this state?
This scenario is similar to how many felines feel when they visit the box. Scents that mask smell, scattered litter debris, lack of accessibility, and discomfort are a few physical reasons that felines avoid the box.
Where should you put the litterbox?
The idea of having a highly visible litter box is unthinkable to most people. The need to hide the box can lead to cramped spaces, uncomfortable entries, and traffic jams. The most important thing is that a cat should love their box as much as their human loves a shower after a long day. It’s the place they are most vulnerable and a poor setup can lead to out of the box behaviors.
Although cat rooms make consolidating your supplies easier, a singular, narrow doorway can cause cats to feel trapped or on top of one another. A low stress option is to have boxes in 2 or more locations without heavy foot traffic, conflicting resources, and regular activity. You can add door latch guards to rooms where accidental closure is possible and litter mats, furniture, and cardboard scratches can catch particles to reduce messes.
What should you put in the litter box?
Whether it’s your freshly potted plants, socks on the floor, or your couch-cats will let you know if their box makes them miserable by finding a place that doesn’t. In a post pandemic world, we’ve learned to appreciate toilet paper and while some kept their bidets, most of us went running back to our beloved name brands and began hoarding it for future emergencies. Cats can be just as particular about the substrate that’s used in their box.
Clay
The most common and preferred litter substrate for guardians and cats. Made of absorbent clay materials, fragrances, and antibacterial materials such as baking soda or activated charcoal. Many clay litters produce a medium-high amount of dust. Fortunately, regular scooping prevents the build up of urine and thus decreases the probability of a cat breaking up a previous clump and kicking up excess dust.
Organic
Litters made of biodegradable materials such as corn, tofu, walnut, citrus peels, wheat, ashes, wood, recycled paper, grass, etc…. These litters make good alternatives for human and pet allergies or respiratory issues as there are several substrate options to choose from. Most have good odor control, absorbability, and produce low-moderate dust. Many say they are “flushable”, however this isn’t recommended as introducing a dirt like substance to plumping pipes can cause blockages.
Pellets
Small, cylindrical pieces of wood, tofu, paper, walnut shells, etc…. This substrate dissolves and turns to powder when wet. The suggested setup is to line the box with a potty pad so it can catch urine. This litter is uneven under cat feet, has poor odor control, produces a high amount of dust, needs to be changed frequently, and scooping can be difficult with standard litter scoops. They also make monitoring urinary health nearly impossible, because the urine will sit for days before the pad needs to be replaced.
Crystals
Small, silica-based granules that often have “health monitoring” features. These litters have a high spread/tracking rate as the crystals tend to cling to fur and paw pads, but they are lightweight, have low odor and are good for cats with chronic health challenges or sensitive paws.
Clumping vs Non-Clumping
Clumping litter is more sanitary, has better odor control, lasts longer, is more readily available, and is more preferred by cats. Non-clumping litter is considered safer for kittens, but there are better, lower cost clumping organic litter options that will reduce the risk of kittens accidentally ingesting the clay litter.
Other
Some other types of litter include washable or reusable pellets, potty pads, and toilet training.
How should the box smell?
No one wants to smell the box and many products are commercially available to cover up the smell, but by cleaning, sanitizing and replacing your litter box you can keep it smelling fresh without inundating your cat’s nose with conflicting scents.
Scented, blockers, and eaters
Cats have sensitive noses and odor blockers, perfumed, and scented litters can lead to avoidance, respiratory problems, and increased scent marking. Commercial litter box deodorizers are heavily scented and can cause respiratory issues, avoidance, and often smell worse than unscented litter. Additives like activated charcoal and baking soda destroy odor causing bacteria, but produce no detectable smell to cats or humans. The most effective odor eliminator is for the cat to cover their business, and an unscented litter will remove one barrier to a cat not wanting to “flush” their toilet.
Plug-ins
Are at nose level, get hot, and smell overwhelming to a cat’s sensitive nose. Some leak and pose a health hazard to animals.
Candles and Wax Melts
Are a safer alternative to making your home smell nice. They are localized, cleaner/self contained, and the smell wafts onto the air and dissipates. Be sure to place them in an inaccessible spot to keep cats from knocking them over or stepping on them.
Air Spray
Aerosol cans of fragrance leave residue behind that can be ingested. Aerosol is also harder on the respiratory system and can be inhaled.
Diffusers
Almost all essential oils are toxic and deadly to pets. The oil leaves residue on nearby surfaces that can be ingested, residue can be inhaled in the air, and most scents are overpowering. Tea tree, eucalyptus, citronella, and citrus are the most dangerous for cats.
What should the box look like?
Boxes can be uncovered, covered, top entry, front entry, automatic, fitted for a corner, turf, sifting, etc…
Size
The ideal litter box should allow the cat to enter completely, turn around, dig, bury, and maneuver easily. If any part of your cat hangs over the box edge or touches the side walls or top while standing, the box is too small.
Uncovered or Covered
Think of a covered box as the cat equivalent of an airplane bathroom or port-a-potty. The covers are designed for human comfort, and there is a misconception that cats want privacy. Covered boxes retain odors, cause condensation/build up, and are often too small for the modern housecat.
If kids or dogs entering the box is a concern, pick a covered box that allows the cat to stand, squat, and stretch out comfortably from tip to tail. The standard box sold in most stores may be large enough for a kitten, but plan on replacing that box within 6 months as the kitten grows beyond 6-8 pounds.
Door Flaps
Can contribute to smell retention and refusal to use the box. They can cause cats to feel trapped and are uncomfortably opened by pushing their face into the door as their whiskers can become fatigued. The door flap will also swing back on them as they enter or exit, which is an additional cause of stress.
Materials
Boxes can be made of plastic, cardboard, and stainless steel. Stainless steel boxes are considered to be the most sanitary and long lasting, but are limited in in-store availability. Plastic is the most readily available and should be replaced annually.
Hidden
Commercial litter box furniture such as cabinets, benches, and side tables can integrate the box into any space without it being unsightly. Having multiple entry/exit options to the cabinet, like two doors, will minimize odor and stress. Many commercially available litter box cabinets are made of materials that will swell when exposed to liquids, such as particle board and MDF.
Automatic
Automatic boxes are a good alternative for guardians with chronic pain or mobility concerns, but should never be the “only” box. Most automatic boxes are too small, noisy, and don’t allow cats to dig and bury their waste. It’s recommended that you keep 1-2 standard boxes for emergencies and comfort. There have also been safety concerns involving some automatic boxes that have trapped or maimed cats. Monitoring your cat's input and output is a crucial part of the caretaking process and automatic boxes often remove this as a daily option.
How do I keep the litter box clean?
Scooping & Dumping
Bacteria from urine and feces are the number one contributor for unwanted smell in the home and box. Boxes should be scooped daily and have the litter fully replaced every other week.
Litter Spread
Litter is going to spread, be dusty, and remain on your cat’s feet. Daily sweeping and scooping will keep litter fresh longer and reduce mess. Adding a small, disposable, cardboard scratcher in front of boxes allows cats to scent mark/communicate and can catch wayward litter.
Washing & Sanitizing
Monthly washing and sanitation should keep boxes fresh, well preserved, and free of harmful bacteria. Boxes can be washed with hot water and Dawn dish soap or soaked with white vinegar. Bleach and ammonia are unsafe and ineffective to cut through fecal and urinary residue; Lysol and 409 are toxic to cats. Accelerated hydrogen products, such as Rescue, can be used after washing to remove harmful viral and bacterial elements. Toilet scrubbers, sponges, and rubber dish gloves are effective tools for scrubbing stubborn stains.
Tools
Litter scoops can be made of plastic or metal and have vents to sift out solid waste. Litter Box liners are plastic bags that are often torn by claws and can cause cats to avoid the box. Small plastic or dog waste bags make it easy to toss waste.
Replacement
Boxes should be replaced when scratches cover 50% or more of the box, they are stained, and after illness or injury. Plastic boxes will need to be replaced the most often due to its porous nature and ability to lock in bacteria; annual replacements are best. Stainless steel boxes are the most durable and should not need regular replacements. Automatic boxes may need parts replaced or professional servicing for damaged or missing parts.
What’s the best litter box option?
Ultimately, your feline’s comfort should guide your choice for a litter and waste system. To summarize, the ideal litter box:
Is large enough for the cat to enter, turn around, stretch up and down, dig, crouch, or otherwise move freely
Can be accessed from more than one direction
In 2 or more low-traffic locations that can’t be blocked by activity or barriers such as doors
Uses small granule, unscented, clumping litter that is scooped daily and replaced every other week
Matches your cats preference and needs
